Giordani, three “gringos locos” and that unfinished masterpiece on Piergiorgio


Some objectives remain. Failed attempts and dreams left untouched in half open drawers. And our testimonial Maurizio Giordani while wandering an entire lifetime across the mountains of the world must have filled up quite a few of those half open drawers.

And every now and then, he finds the right moment to open them up again pulling out of the past new future objectives. The step from there is short. Involving other climbing partners, often very young and determined and together with his vast experience on many rock faces, which have often never been explored before, set off with him on this adventure…

Maurizio is now tied up to Hervè Barmasse, and with the duo Francesco Favilli-Mirco Grasso, in fact he has just set off for Patagonia, which in this season offers the best conditions for ascents, conditions however in this part of the globe as is well known, are extremely rare and difficult to make the most of.

Giordani in the past has already climbed on this face, the route which they want to climb runs up the central part of the NW face of Cerro Piergiorgio (2719m), one of the most beautiful and difficult in the world, approximately 900 metres high and situated like a sentinel overlooking the never ending Hielo Continental glacier. It is an unfinished project, started by him in 1995 with Gianluca Maspes, which they called “Gringos Locos” interrupted by bad weather on the 21st pitch. The same climbers in 1996 climbed up the line on the eastern ridge on the left calling the route “Esperando la Cumbre”..The team has set off on the 10th December and will return on the first days of January. The ascent’s strategy will be based on speed and climbing light, setting up bivouacs on the face using hammocks and using as little gear as possible to progress, the minimum required.

Then, as always in the mountains, but probably in Patagonia more than any other place in the world, the last word, in that world where the wind blows across the mountains like “la Escoba de Dios” as the locals call it, will depend on the weather. In the meantime good luck, or better “Buena suerte!” to the four alpinists.

Mirco Grasso, Maurizio Giordani, Francesco Favilli and our haul bags! All are loaded and charged

Cerro Piergiorgio’s face: in the middle the attempt which was interrupted in ’95, to the left the ascent line of “Esperando la Cumbre” of ‘96