From the moment that I see a possible new line a sort of film pops up in my imagination where I think about how it will be to overcome that section of the wall where I have decided that the line goes up.
It was just like this for the route “Angelo Mio”
I imagined myself climbing up a perfect sequence of handholds and footholds, on a beautiful piece of rock that is rarely found in this area, at the limits of my abilities, always finding the perfect place to place the cliff so that I could place a bolt in the rock.
I imagined myself climbing on difficult sequences of crimps, pockets and droplets like a cat that climbs up the smooth bark of a tree.
I imagined myself falling into the void that is offered by the slightly overhanging wall in that exact moment that I would not be able to reach the last hold of a difficult sequence.
Most of this did not happen, however I had the pleasure of putting up this new line where the climbing is almost always enjoyable and in a fantastic setting.
It was like climbing a classic route where you always find points of easier climbing, which in these areas is not to say that you are searching for an easy grade to climb, but you are always searching for the beautiful rock; that is not all friable or really dirty.
It was a continuous taste of the pleasure of climbing without ever being on the limit; in fact climbing flows on the more playful side of things when we are not close to our limits.
I was able to look without rushing and with a lot of satisfaction at the route “Giallomania” that goes up a line about fifty metres to the right, it is a route that I put up a few years ago together with my partner Angela.
Looking at it from here, “Giallomania” looks really intimidating and it is not very inviting. Fortunately, it is a thing of the past.
I think that “Angelo Mio” can give a lot of satisfaction to anyone with a little bit of a mountaineering spirit who goes and repeats it.
It is a great route to get you warmed up at the start of the season, and it is also a great line to tackle before the colder temperatures arrive, when the colour of the leaves are tinged with more vibrant colours and the nature makes these wonderful places look even more beautiful .
The name of the route is simply a tribute and a dedication to the person who is walking along side me in life.
A bit of information about the route:
Monte Spitz, West face
Route: Angelo Mio
FIRST ASCENT: Alessio Roverato and Angela Carraro.
Line put up in the autumn of 2015
LENGTH: 250 metres
1st pitch: 25m, IV
2nd pitch: 25m, 6b
3rd pitch: 35m, 7a
4th pitch: 20m, 7a+
5th pitch: 25m, 7a+
6th pitch: 25m, 6a
7th pitch: 30m, 6a
8th pitch: 20m, 6b+
9th pitch: 25m, 6b+
10th pitch: 20m, 6b
ACCESS: From Valsugana head into the Gardena Valley and park the car at the beginning of the valley just before the “No Entry” sign.
Walk along the road into the valley and after about 10 minutes it becomes a path, follow this path that remains on the valley floor for about 30 – 40 minutes until you come to a round boulder with a red mark on the right.
At this point, you take the thin track that branches off to the right and goes up through the wooded slopes. When you have almost arrived under the wall you will come to another track that you follow keeping the wall on your right. Once you arrived under the enormous yellow rock where the line “Giallomania” starts, continue for another few dozen metres until you reach a narrow ledge from where the line “Angelo Mio” starts.
(1 hr 45 mins)
Pay attention to the track that is not always very obvious.
DESCENT: from the end of the route, go up through the forest for about one hundred until you find the “CAI” path that you follow in the direction of Valsugana thus returning to the entrance of the Gadena Valley, or alternatively abseil down.
MATERIAL: 10 quickdraws and two 60 metre ropes.
PH:Matteo Mocellin / Storyteller-Labs