Found in the Sarca valley, that is increasingly saturated with climbing routes that cross each other or touch the Limarò gorge, is a pleasant oasis of isolation.
This canyon opens up in front of the village of Sarche, even though you find yourself close to a busy road and the approach is relatively short, it is a place where it is difficult to encounter other people.
The fact that nearly all the walls are hidden from view and they are also quite difficult has allowed these rocks to preserve a lot of uncharted terrain. Even though there are many walls that are up to 50 metres in height, the lines that have been put up are no more than six or seven metres.
This climb, opened in the spring of 2015, is an example of the potential and of the beauty of this place. It is a trad climb that goes up a logical line that follows a vertical and overhanging crack.
To inaugurate it was a real pleasure that we hope to share with many climbers who come and repeat this line. It is a fairly short and easy climb – the approach is less than 15 minutes’ walk and there is a total of 8 pitches -, the environment is fascinating and adventurous. It is necessary to know how to place tradition protection because only a few pitons have been used and in the crack you can place good protection, the final slab is obligatory. The anchors are all bolted.
6c E2+ (6b+ obligatory)
Route put up by Alessio Miori, Giordano Faletti and Francesco Salvaterra, spring 2014. Sara Valley
A very beautiful line. The pitches up the central crack and the compact slab are exciting. The rock is generally good or of excellent quality except for one section, that requires extra attention.
Given the easy approach and the quality of the climbing, the line deserves to become a classic in the Sacra valley for trad climbing enthusiasts. The anchors are bolted and there are a few pitons on some of the pitches.
History: The route was opened over a period of time with fixed ropes.
First complete and free ascent: Jacopo Pellizzari and Francesco Salvaterra on the 01/10/15 in 5 hours.
Approach: From the village of Sarche, follow the road towards Ponte Arche. After the third tunnel, when you get to the Limarò Boulder, park the car on the left hand side. Cross the road and follow the cycle path towards Ponte Arche for about 150 metres, on the right side of a small clearing there is a path that descends steeply. Follow it almost until the river Sacra and once you pass a fixed rope that helps you with the step, abandon the path and head leftwards on the river bank that is to the left of the obvious crack that the route goes up. To look at the line, two bolts have been placed with a fixed rope used to cross the river, if the rope is not there, it is possible to jump to the other side of the river but it is necessary to leave a fixed rope to return to the other side of the river. Variation: just upstream, near the remains of a collapsed bridge you can jump from one boulder to another with the help of another rope.
Once you are back on the other riverbank go up in the forest towards the crack. At the base of the rock on the far right hand side of the forest there is a cairn and you can see the first piton with a piece of rope.
Descent: Abseil down the line (see sketch).
Material: #2 and 2-3 TCU friends, nuts, two 60m ropes, two 10m cuts of rope to equip the river crossing if the one placed there is missing.
Francesco Salvaterra e Giordano Faletti