Every winter, and there are a lot of them, the destiny of our weekends is usually in the direction of Margalef. It is one the best places in the world to climb and a favourite place for climbing for many climbers from all around the world. It is a wonderful place and not only for the walls, the routes and the very special rock that is full of small two finger pockets, but also because of the people. For us it is a very special place because we feel like we are at home when we are there. And probably because of this reason, we will go back year after year, enjoying the routes and the company of the local people.
This year I did not have any projects there. I was focused on my “big goal” “El priorato de Sion” at the crag of Alquezar. Whereas Silvia’s (my girlfriend) project is in Margalef (I am sure that she will send it soon), and so we decided to come here on the weekends so she could focus on her project this season. In the meantime, my attention was drawn towards a route that had been completely forgotten. The route was put up by Ramonet a few years ago and last year Alex Megos made the first repetition. I realized that the route was perfect for my preferred style of climbing and I liked it but my mind was in another place and in another route: “El priorato de Sion” has all my focus.
But then something amazing happened… I got what I was focused on. It was a magical day and I was so psyched to get to the top of “El priorato de Sion” in Alquezar. It was finally a reality for me!!! Wow!!!! The pressure disappeared and my motivation went through the roof!! Therefore, I decided to focus on that amazing route I had seen, because as I already said, the route was perfect for my preferred style of climbing. I sent it pretty quickly, more or less eight days working the route and just twenty tries was enough for me to be able to add this beautiful route to my climbing book!!
So let me tell you about the route. It’s found in Espadelles, a big area in Margalef. It’s the biggest area found there and probably one of the biggest in the world. The route was bolted by Renaud Moulin, who has bolted many routes in Margalef and who continues to bolt many lines in different parts of Spain.
The route has about 30 meters of vertical climbing and then 15 meters of overhanging climbing. It has two different sections: the first one has a hard 10 move crux that is very physical with two long moves for the right shoulder and then you climb to the right side taking some pockets that links up to the second part of the route, which was the most important part for me. A continuous overhanging of resistance with a crux in the middle and a very physical sequence on two finger pockets in the roof. Your arms get so pumped in that sequence and I fell time after time because I just ran out of energy, but if you are able to do the sequence, you only have to climb 5 more metres of easy climbing on a beautiful wall to get to the top.
I am sure that over time climbers from all around the world will come here to try it because it is beautiful and it is a quality line and for sure it will be transformed into the goal for many climbers like me. Come on climbers!!!! The route is here for the taking!!!!