100 routes in the 8th grade: Pietro Biagini


1. 100 routes in the 8th grade before your 16 years old. Congratulations Pietro, what does this nice number mean to you?

Nowadays it s known that 100 8th graders is not an exceptional achievement, because the average level has risen a lot and with the new means of training the high grades are much more “accessible”, but for me it was still an important achievement in this great period of rock climbing that I have experienced and that I am living right now, an achievement that pushes me even more to aim higher.

2. Do you remember any route in particular?

I definitely remember and will remember forever Hyaena, one of my most recent climbs, another line that left its mark was Nazgul, a beautiful line put up by Gianni Duregato at Finale, it was a bit of a turning point because I was nearly going crazy on that line.

Pietro su Hyaena

Pietro su Hyaena

3. Which route captured you the most out of all of them?

The most beautiful line that I have climbed was maybe Obi-wan kenobi at Camaiore… a perfect line in the centre of a streak of orange rock, even though the holds were excavated it is still a fantastic line.

4 . On which route did you suffer the most?

The route which sure I suffered the most on was Belgarath, a short and bouldery 8b at Finale on which I spent a lot of time and energy on, maybe also because of the fact that I had to understand all the movements and maybe because I was younger and had less experience… sending it made me realize how much believing in being able to do something is the key to success, I have never had to work a route so much and who knows if one day the lessons learnt on Belgarath will come in useful again.

5. Which one would you like to climb again?

I don’t think there is a line I would like to climb again for the simple reason that it would be repetitive and you wouldn’t get the emotions that you get from the first time you try a route, the sensations you feel in that moment when you send a line for the first time are unrepeatable on the same line, so much so that we are always searching for new lines.

Pietro Biagini ad Albenga

6. You have already laid your hands on the 101st route, is it a special route? 

Yes I tried Alien Carnage at Camaiore on the same day that I closed the 100th “8” but I don’t think it is the number 101 for me, on Wednesday I am going to Oliena for a week, I am hoping to climbing a lot.

7. What were the last routes that brought you to the magic number of 100?

I was at Castillon and I wasn’t very motivated to try hard lines because I just wanted to relax… but one of my friends that was with me at the crag (Luca Biondi) convinced me to try the line Barjoland, my 99th 8th grader, a hard 8b, the first try boded well for a quick ascent and in fact I sent it on my second try… at that point nothing remained but to do another one so Luca explained to me the moves on the line he was trying (La Niaque 8a) and I managed to flash it… the icing on the cake was being able to do the single moves on Alien at the end of the day, I hope to return before I gets too hot.

Pietro Biagini

Pietro Biagini

8. You often climb with your parents and your dad often gives you a belay on the routes that you try, do you feel comfortable with him belaying you even when you are trying to send a hard project?

I often argue with my dad when I have a bit of pressure for sending a route or a boulder problem, but he always tries to help me… I would never be able to find someone like him who is always willing to belay me for hours and for this I thank him a lot… without him most of the lines that I have managed to climb, I wouldn’t have sent

9. Together with the 100 routes in the 8th grade, you have the second year in the Scientific high school, training sessions, competitions and much more, let’s say you have a pretty busy life!

Yes it is a bit of a juggling act with all my various commitments but I am doing fine for now and I have also started to train for the new season and so the rock will be put into the background for the time being.

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