Take a line that has entered in to the ranks of the legendary routes, either for the period in which it was opened, or for the physiology of the line, or for the obligatory movement that has become unique and identifies only one and another line that is included in this list (Rose et le Vampire).
Then take a guy, a young one, only 15 years old, who lives on bread and climbing, who juggles his time between competitions and outdoor climbing, that includes new projects and classic lines. Pietro Biagini has spent hours learning about, searching for details and information on what has become his new project: Hyaena.
It is a classic line at Finale Ligure, which was bolted at the beginning of 1985 by Andrea Gallo, who spent almost two years learning how to resolve it. In December 1986 he finally succeeded and proposed the grade of 8a+/8b and it was only after the first repetition of the line by Gerhard Horhager that there was talk of 8b/8b+. Twenty years later, Adam Ondra who was just twelve years old at the time and was returning from a trip to France, made a quick visit to Finale and sent Hyaena.
Pietro had a few goes on the line before Christmas but the warm weather in December stopped him from sending it. He had to wait for a month or so and today is the first day back on the route, Saturday the 23rd of January. He returned to Finale with his father, his tireless weekend climbing companion. Gianluca (his father) watches his son with his climbing glasses line after line, weekend after weekend, driving for hours on end to take Pietro to all the crags that are a must see. With a silent and patient presence, he puts on his harness and attaches the click-up for belaying and then awaits for all the commands that come from the live end of the rope… take, give me the rope, etc.
While Pietro prepares, he tells us how the passion of “Pié” for this sport was born and what is now becoming an important part of his life. He recounts that it was almost by accident, just for fun and he went from sailing to sport climbing and bouldering. “I think it’s really positive for Pietro – continues Gianluca – beyond the competitions and achievements achieved or not so, said from a great lover of the mountains in its various forms (mountaineering, hiking, caving and canyoning), I like the idea that he can enjoy the mountains in a different way from those explored by me and that he can benefit for life from these skills.”
Meanwhile, Pietro has finished warming up and now he is dedicated to Hyaena.
Pietro is quick and precise, instinctive and hungry. He sends his project with the enthusiasm of a 15 year old that gets to the top of something big. Below, for those at the base of the route, the satisfaction is maybe even bigger and it is treasured inside one’s self.
The next challenge for Pietro? Is beyond the Italian borders…
Pictures and video: Alberto Orlandi