Alessio Roverato and his Giallomania route

To ponder over a new line.

When I happen to be hanging on the last bolt of a new line that I am putting up, often my eyes start to look more attentively at everything that surrounds me.

So therefore instead of thinking about how to overcome the next few metres I think about where a nice new line could be put up on the wall on the opposite side of the valley.

The minutes of rest are over, time to continue. I go up a few metres: another bolt. And again, my attention turns to that wall: there is a huge yellow “gateway” that looks very interesting but also very steep. Including multiple roofs that, you know, here in the Grappa and Valsugana area they will not have many holds.

Anyway, no worries, if these roofs are too big, I will avoid them with a nice traverse like Cassin did on the west peak of Lavaredo. But that’s not to put a downer on the great Ricardo, an icon in the history of mountaineering. Here we are talking about sport climbing, more or less.

Now that the idea of the new line has fully entered into the mind, from here on, there is no going back.

When I have the photo with that part of the wall of Monte Spitz in my hands, I remain observing it for a long time.

The idea would be to overcome all the roofs with a perfect line of droplets but I know it will be hardly possible. The “will be hardly” becomes “it’s possible” when along with Angela I arrive at the base of the wall.

Some roofs are simply too big and terribly smooth.

So I start thinking about the idea of the traverse. To get to the traverse, however, there is a section that just by looking at the photo looks very fragile… and in reality, it will be just that.

Anyway I am used to the rock in this area, I don’t care anymore.

Actually, I do care, because I still cannot resist the temptation to climb these rocks that make you suffer so much but that also offer those wonderful emotions that you never forget.

This is how Giallomania was born on the West face of the Monte Spitz.

Alessio Roverato

Ph: Matteo Mocellin

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